Random Early Kennecott Photo

I don’t really have anything to share about progress on the railroad (my biggest achievement was stringing track power to the track from Gilahina to Strelna), but I did recently acquire an old photo of Kennecott that I’ve never seen before.  It’s clearly from the very early days, as the power plant isn’t built yet and the mill is under construction.  Thought I’d share it with y’all…

kennicott-2

Yes, there’s even more detail in the photo than the medium resolution version the thumbnail links to – you can read the text on the ends of the cars.  However, that version is huge.  If you want it, email me.

Benchwork Reaches Third Crossing

I haven’t had time to take pictures yet, but before I left for Chicago, the benchwork is now all the way through Strelna and at the northeast end of the Third Copper River Crossing (the one east of Chitina).   Unfortunately, in addition to being out of town, I’ve suffered a few other setbacks.  The 500′ spool of 14 AWG DCC bus was stolen shortly after being dropped off on my front porch by the delivery guy, so I’m out of wire for a couple days, and I’m waiting on more flex track and turnouts.  Because of those two items, it’ll be a few days until rails catch up with the benchwork, but I’m hoping by the end of March to have the upper deck mainline connected to the helix.

Pictures when I get back to Colorado.

First Train Reaches Gilahina

It’s really amazing how long it takes to do things sometimes.  I honestly hoped I’d be where I am now almost a year ago, but hey, life gets in the way, right?

At least I’m finally making progress on the mainline.  As of 1900h tonight, the first train reached Gilahina – or at least where the new Gilahina bridge will be in the future.  Sure, the electrical isn’t complete that far out (power was provided by clip leads) and there really wasn’t any complex trackwork in that stretch, but I’m still happy that I’ve finally got mainline down and can run trains more than over a few switches.

Saturday Progress

I’ve had a number of other things going on over the weekends (or it’s just been too darn nice to not get one of the convertibles out for a drive – pass up a 75 degree day in February, I don’t think so!), and haven’t felt like I’m actually making much progress lately.

This past week marks an end to the unproductive streak.  I’ve completed the roadbed from Nicolai Junction to the south siding switch at Strelna.  Track now extends down as far as the McCarthy end of the Kennicott River bridge.  I’ve also placed temporary bridges in the three large gaps – the Kennicott River crossing, the new Gilahina bridge, and of course the famous Kuskulana bridge.

I have other matters to attend to tomorrow, but I’m hoping to find a few hours to work on extending trackwork.  I’d really like to see the end of track at Strelna early next week.  At this rate, it may yet be possible to achieve my goal of track and electrical complete by summer.

Pictures tomorrow, after I clean up the disaster I’ve created in the layout room…

Progress – Rails Reach Kennicott and Nicolai Jct

I finally feel like I’m making progress again.  For the last three months or so, work has just been beating the snot out of me, and I haven’t had as much time to work on the layout as I would have liked.  However, that’s now starting to improve, and the mainline is starting to appear on the main layout.

The first matter is a bit of a track plan change.  You’ll notice on my original track plan, Nicolai Junction – the place where the fictional Nizina Branch breaks off the prototype mainline – was originally pretty inflexible.  Because the single track mainline split into the siding and main for Kennicott, and then the branch broke off the siding, the whole thing could get jammed up if you were loading a train at Kennicott and it was fouling the switch.  Plus, the McCarthy siding was short, so it wasn’t capable of holding a full ore train.  So, the track plan adjustments begin…

I extended double track up from the McCarthy switch, made one mainline diverge as the Nizina Branch and the other diverge as the Kennicott main, and then connected the Kennicott siding into the mainline.  There are also crossovers between the two main lines going both ways, so that traffic moving off any line can move onto any other line without being blocked.  The new Nicolai Junction will also now be the northern end of CTC on the layout, extended up from my original plan of ending it after the north siding switch at McCarthy.

Here’s the new line diagram:

mccarthy-nicolai-kennicott

I’ve also completed the tracks in front of the old Kennicott mill, and posted a 1:160 print of the mill for scale and alignment.  I intend to model the old mill at full scale, as one of the signature elements of the railroad.  To make sure it was going to fit, I printed 1:160 versions of the front and side elevations of the mill – based on the National Park Service CAD drawings.  Thankfully work has a large HP plotter which makes this much easier…

The electronics for Nicolai Junction are being installed on a fold-down panel located below the junction.  That way the wires all stay up and out of the way, the LEDs don’t shine down on the lower deck, but it can be lowered if maintenance or changes are needed.

Now, about turnouts…  Originally when I started the CR&NW, Atlas code 55 was still nowhere to be found due to their Chinese production issues.  Because of that, I made the decision to go with hand-laid turnouts using FastTracks tools.  However, it’s taken me far longer to get to trackwork than I initially expected, and the Atlas turnouts are now available again after about three years.  While the hand-laid turnouts look incredible and work well, they’re painfully time consuming to build.  The two in front of Kennicott took me a solid afternoon to build and tune.  Consequently, I’ve decided to use them where the switch is a prominent foreground visual element (such as in front of the mill building), but just go back to good ol’ Atlas switches elsewhere.

That’s it for now.  Hopefully by the end of the week I’ll have track extended down to the McCarthy control point and some of the backdrop up, so it’ll look a bit more like a model railroad and less like a bench stuck to framing.

 

Miles Glacier Bridge and the CR&NW Model Ts

The CR&NW seems to have had at least one, possibly multiple, Ford Model Ts converted to railroad wheels.  One of my recent acquisitions is this old CR&NW snapshot of a gentleman and one of the Model Ts (looks to be a later version, based on the larger radiator) posing in the middle of the Miles Glacier bridge.

Note the larger radiator and the single large headlight mounted on the driver’s side.  Contrast this with the smaller radiator and different headlamp arrangement found in a photo of Walter Angier posing with another supposed CR&NW Model T in 1919, as posted on Cora Sowa’s website about a sixth of the way down this page.

I’m not a Ford Model T expert by any means.  However, given what I can dredge up, both cars appear to be 1917s or later, based on the black steel radiators and other design changes.    However, either there have been some serious modifications to the same car between the two images, or the railroad had at least two of these critters.

Auxiliary Power Converters

Like most layouts, the CRNW will need a variety of voltages scattered about for turnouts, signals, structure and scenery lights, etc. I’ve seen various solutions to this problem over the years, ranging from a single auxiliary power bus with local regulation, to multiple aux power buses running at different voltages, to the worst of all possible options (which I’ve seen on more than a few layouts): various old power packs, wall warts, batteries, scattered all over the place to power everything.

Myself, I’m a single aux power bus sort of guy, with point-of-load regulators to deliver whatever voltage is needed. That way, I can delivery 8-9V for MRBus and MRServos, 3V for structure lights, 12V for local NCE cab bus power injection, etc. and only have to run one large, high power bus around the layout to feed everything.  My traditional preference is to run the aux bus at a nice 24VDC.  That means using linear regulators for local voltage generation is pretty much out, as you’d burn a huge amount of power in the regulators.  As an example, take the Nizina Yard and its two MRServo-2s.  They’ll need ~8VDC, and will each draw ~50mA just sitting there if the relays are on (as they’ll be for one direction or the other).  That means the two turnout motors will be drawing 0.8W (8V * (0.05A * 2)), but the regulator needed to create the 8V will be burning 1.6W ( (24V – 8V) * (0.05A * 2) ).  That means that my point-of-load regulator is only 33% efficient.  And it only gets worse from there.

The answer to this is something called a switching regulator (aka a switchmode power supply or simply “switcher”).  Basically, rather than burning off the excess electrical power as heat, switching regulators convert that excess to a magnetic field.  For some small amount of time, they’re switched on, powering the load and storing excess energy in building the magnetic field.  Then they switch the input off and power the load by collapsing the magnetic field.  If you change the ratio between the on and off times and do it very quickly, you get very good regulation and a large percentage of the power actually gets delivered to the load.  It’s not uncommon for switching regulators to be 90+% efficient, which is why they’re becoming common everywhere.

The problem with switchers is that they’re much more complicated than linear regulators, and thus typically more costly.  Fortunately, Chinese manufacturers do things on scales that boggle the mind and do it with parts that are sometimes of questionable heritage, driving costs to an insane minimum.  Popular on eBay are switching converters based on fake National Semiconductor (now Texas Instruments) LM2596 parts.  Often available for around $1 in small quantities, these are a full, adjustable output switching converter on a small PCB, including the control chip, inductor, input and output capacitors, diode, and a potentiometer to set the voltage.

Typical eBay fake LM2596 module

Typical eBay fake LM2596 module

However, now’s an appropriate time for a disclaimer.  One of my favorite quotes from a movie character is from Burt Gummer (played by fellow model railroader and actor Michael Gross):  “The possibilities for disaster boggle the mind…”  At the prices offered for these boards, the LM2596 parts used are almost unconditionally fake, Chinese cloned parts, thrown together into a module where every corner has been cut and every substandard part has been used to minimize costs.  As such, it doesn’t behave like a real quality National/TI part, specifically when you start pushing the limits with regards to current and temperature.  Specifically, if they get too hot, they don’t shut down like a real one.  They just short, sending full input voltage to the load.  If your load can’t handle it, it goes up in smoke.   However, I’ve used a lot of them on various model railroad applications over the years, and as long as you use them conservatively (meaning don’t do more than 1A continuously), they do work and work well for $1.

eBay MP1584EN module

eBay MP1584EN module

A new module started appearing on eBay a couple months ago – a much smaller design, based on (theoretically) a much more modern switching chip.  The chip appears to be an MP1584EN from Monolithic Power Systems, and the board is about the size of a quarter.  Again, they’re available for about $1, which makes no sense at all, given that real MP1584EN parts are over $1 even in 10,000 unit quantities, and that doesn’t take into account the other parts, the board, or putting it all together.  Either the Chinese got a hell of a steal on their parts, or once again we’re dealing with a cloned part.  So what did I do?  Order a dozen of them for evaluation, of course!

In the usual 2-3 weeks, a bag showed up in the mailbox with a whole bunch of the little modules in it, each individually packaged in an ESD protection back.  Each module is about the size of a US quarter – exactly what the dimensions on the original eBay listing promised.  However, the holes are not exactly where they were specified to be – the upper and lower groups are 30 mils too far apart and the right and left groups are also 30 mils too far apart.  Otherwise, they’re pretty unremarkable.  So, the next step was to solder up wires and beat them up electrically to see if they’d survive layout use.

The test setup involved a bench supply pushing 24V, meters for input voltage and current, a meter for measuring IC temperature on the switching board, and then a programmable current load (the Re:load Pro from Arachnid Labs – a remarkable piece of gear for the pricetag) for actually sinking the power.  Oh, and we’ll throw my scope on the output to check for ripple as well.  What you wind up in terms of bench litter looks something like this:

The test setup on my bench

The test setup on my bench

The first one was dead, straight out of the ESD bag.  It had quiescent current draw (200uA or so) but no output.  Didn’t matter if I twiddled with the pot or anything, it was just pain dead.  I suspect the IC itself had a bad power switch, as I couldn’t see any voltage on the output to feed the inductor.  Well, write that one off as a mechanical sample only…

The second one fired right up and did exactly what it was supposed to.  For the simulation, I chose 24V as the input voltage, matching my planned accessory bus, and 8.5V as the output voltage since that’s usually what I feed to MRServos and to the MRBus network.  At each current step, I’d set it and go do other things for five minutes to allow the temperature to reach steady state.  (The room was approximately 68F / 20C during the testing.)

Here’s the raw data:

Target Current Vin (volts) Iin (amps) Vout (volts) Iout (amps) Tsteady (deg C) Vripple (mV rms) Eff (%)
0.25A 24 0.1 8.47 0.249 31 11.9 87.9
0.50A 24.1 0.196 8.45 0.499 35 15.8 89.3
0.75A 23.8 0.296 8.43 0.75 41 16.1 89.7
1.00A 23.5 0.398 8.41 1 47 16.6 89.9
1.50A 23.9 0.588 8.37 1.5 53 18.2 89.3
2.00A 23.2 0.817 8.31 1.99 69 20.1 87.2

At 2A, the part was right on the edge of thermal limiting.  It would cut out for a few fractions of a seconds every 5-10 seconds.  Above 2A, it was in thermal limiting more than it was out.  So realistically, running these at 1.5A would seem to be a safe maximum.   Efficiency is also decent – ranging between 87-90% for my test cases.  Not bad for a $1 converter board.

On the other hand, the testing proved that thermal limiting does indeed appear to work.  Additionally, I subjected the part to repeated short circuits on the output with no apparent harm.  It gives me some faith that if this is a cloned control IC or at least one that failed some part of QA (and I have every reason to believe it would be, as discussed earlier), that these actually will function well enough to meet my needs.

Because these boards won’t be very handy to work with directly, and I have a rule that any switching converter hanging off the high current auxiliary bus have a fuse (since a tiny board like this suddenly dissipating 200W+ (10A@24V, my fused limit back at the power supply) seems really bad), I’ve designed a carrier board for them that includes an input filter cap, a ATO-style fuse holder, terminal blocks for the input and output, and a “power on” LED.  Pretty simple board, really, but should make working with these things a lot easier.  It’s off to fab right now, but I should have it back by Christmas and can report on it as well.

Changing Contact Adhesives

Unfortunately I had a fair number of other things to do this weekend, so I didn’t get as much done as I really would have liked.

Typically for attaching N scale roadbed and track, I use DAP’s Weldwood contact adhesive. What can I say – it’s cheap and it works.  However, the stuff is a witch’s brew of organic solvents that – in addition to potential biological side effects – features prominent warnings about causing an explosion when being used, say, ten feet from a furnace.  During the summer that’s not an issue, since the furnace is shut down dead (and I have an electric water heater, so that’s not a concern).  Since it’s now winter, ventilating the basement adequately to avoid the “big boom” isn’t as much an option.  So I set out in search of a better adhesive that would be less likely to form a mushroom cloud in eastern Colorado Springs.

What I found was 3M’s Fastbond 30NF.  It’s still a polychloroprene contact cement, but the chemical engineering wizards at 3M have figured out how to make it primarily water-based, rather than all the organic solvents in most other contact cement.  It’s explicitly marketed for its nonflammability when wet.  In fact, the datasheet shows that it has no flash point – you literally can’t ignite it.  Sure, it’s also rather expensive ($100/gallon), but less so than blowing up your house.

The good news is that it works, and works very well in terms of bond strength.  The bad news is that “Fastbond” doesn’t live up to the fast part of its name.  It has a significantly longer wet stage than the organic solvent-based stuff, which is understandable even in such a dry environment as a Colorado winter.  I found that I usually had to wait about 20-30 minutes between application and actually being able to adhere pieces together.

The good news is that my concerns about it not bonding strongly enough (because, somehow, I assume anything not based on hideously harmful and/or flammable chemicals is inferior) were completely baseless.  The 30NF bond strength seems significantly stronger than the Weldwood, up and to the point that I had to put spacers down to keep the track from accidentally sticking when I was assembling the rail joiners.  At least twice I had a tie stick down so hard it detached from the rail when trying to get it up.  As long as it endures over time (and I have no reason to think it won’t), this stuff is superior from a bond aspect.

The other downside, besides working time, is that any frothy or clumpy spot will dry white.  However, most of that will be under ballast, and you just have to be more careful to only apply a thin layer to the bottom of the track.  Really it’s just about learning to apply more carefully than the “slather it on” method used in the past.

What Day, What Year, What Season?

For many prototype and proto-freelance modellers, their layout is set in a specific month of a specific year, or perhaps even a specific day.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that, but I’m not that guy.  The CR&NW will take more of the approach that Eric Brooman took with his Utah Belt – time on the layout marches forward with reality.    Given that the basic reason for the line’s existence – copper ore hauling – won’t change substantially year-over-year, neither will my dedicated freight car fleet or motive power.  It does, however, allow me to adjust the interchange traffic and an occasional lease unit that will show up online, and vary the mix a little bit.  Rather than being in perfect lock-step with real time, I do think I’ll set it about three years in the past.  So, for example, 2014 in real life will be 2011 on the layout.  That allows me as an otherwise busy modeller time to ponder how the railroad would respond to real life FRA mandates, economic conditions, etc., and adjust things accordingly.

The one catch is that it will always be mid-September on my Copper River.  That’s because for years, it seemed as if I was always in Alaska in late August or September.  Alaska to me was always in the fall, and just jumped forward a year at a time between visits.  I love the colors of the trees that time of year, and the light is beautiful.  The rivers will still be running with a fair flow, but not raging full of sediment and debris and looking for all the world like a torrent of liquid concrete.  There’s no hint of snow yet at the elevations and regions modelled – only at worst maybe a heavy frost – though there may be some far up on the mountainsides.  The weather is still pleasant, but the menace of winter is looming.

I think how we’ll handle it is that we’ll start operating sessions in January with the model date being about September 7, and just let scale time march forward as it does.   I’m going to aim for getting a full 24-hour day in each op session, running the FC around 4:1, but I won’t know if that’s actually going to work out until I have a layout that can be operated and a few guys to try it out.  It may be that 4:1 is the right ratio, but we only run 12-18 scale hours at a time because everyone tires out after that.  In that case, we’ll just stop the clock when we get done and pick up from there at the next session.

It’s all very exciting to ponder, and quite frankly I really wish I could just snap my fingers and get all of the trackwork, scenery, and equipment ready to go, but there’s at least a year or two of work ahead of me before we’re even close.

Learning to Love the DIN Again

As many of you know from my previous post, I recently converted from Lenz to NCE, largely for the wireless throttles.  Despite that, I’m going to put in fascia cab bus jacks just in case.  While I don’t have any intentions of running the layout with wired throttles under normal conditions, I can foresee a day when it might be necessary.  The last thing I want is to have to cancel an op session because one of my neighbours cranked up their 900MHz cordless phone and took down the wireless throttles.

The one thing I don’t particularly care for with NCE is the use of 6p6c (often incorrectly called RJ11, RJ12, or RJ25) connectors for the cab cables.  You know, those little modular connectors commonly associated with phones.  And it’s not just NCE – everybody seems to have gone to these now.

Why don’t I like the 6p6c modular connectors?  I find the little plastic tabs hard to release from the jacks, that they often break after any significant use, and that wiring fatigue and failure often happens near the jack as a result of inadequate strain relief.  Just a month ago I was at an operating session and we had two different operators lose control of their trains because the cable failed right at the 6p6c connector.

It’s not (just) a personal dislike based on anecdotal evidence.  Often times manufacturers of 6p6c jacks don’t rate the number of insertion cycles, and those that do generally have minimum lifetimes in the 300-500 insertion range.  Modular jacks just weren’t designed to be plugged and unplugged repeatedly.  They were designed in 1975 by Bell to provide a cheap, uniform connector for telephone cords.  Telephones don’t get plugged and unplugged all that often, unlike a guy following his train around the room.

The good news is that there’s a superior connector out there.  The 5-pin DIN connector, standardized as DIN 41524, was designed originally for connections between audio equipment.  The connector itself has robust pins and can easily be moulded to a cable with an integral strain relief.  There’s no little plastic tab to break off.  Plus, even the cheapest jacks are rated for 1000+ insertion cycles, double or more what the RJs can handle.  I first encountered it years ago when I was using CTC-16e as my command control system, and I was pleased that Lenz had used it when I first moved to DCC.

NCE offered a dual DIN fascia panel at one time (the NCE UTP-DIN), but apparently they’re out of production and no longer available.  (Update:  I’m told via the NCE Yahoo group that they’re just out of stock, not necessarily discontinued as many of the retailers state.  Apparently Tony’s Train Exchange has placed an order for 500 of them and should have them soon.)  Lenz still offers the LA152, but they’re rather pricey ($25-35 typically) when they’re not out of stock. Apparently everybody else has decided they can live with the god-awful little RJ connectors.  I can’t.

As Usual, Build My Own

That left me with – as usual – only one option that I was happy with:  design and build my own.  Fortunately, the cab panels are extremely simple – just a couple jacks for the cab bus, a couple DIN connectors, some mechanical board-to-faceplate bits, and a “cab bus power” LED.

Building my own allowed me to make a couple improvements.  The biggest change from the NCE version is that these use 8p8c (RJ45) connectors for the cab bus that follow the NCE Cat5 pinout.  I also added a self-resetting polyfuse and a terminal block for injecting power into the cab bus, should it be needed, along with a jumper to select whether to inject power or just pass it along.  This replaces the 1/8″ audio plug on the back of an NCE panel where power can be injected, and adds a bit of protection (the polyfuse) against shorts.

Here’s a few pictures of the first assembled prototype, plugged into the CRNW’s cab bus a few hours ago:

As a ardent supporter of Open Source Hardware, this project will be released under a Creative Commons BY-SA 2.0 license, just like everything else I build personally.  (Yes, the board says Iowa Scaled Engineering, but given that I am half of ISE, I can do that…)  That license basically means that as long as you give me credit for it and you share any modifications you make likewise, you’re welcome to do whatever you want with the design.

For the prototypes, I’ve sourced the panels through a PCB prototyping service called OSH Park.  I use them for all sorts of things, and they do high quality work.  If you just want some v1.1 boards just as they are, you can order them directly via this link.  You’re also welcome to use the design files below to create your own gerbers and have them made through whomever you’d like.  The schematic and PCB are designed using the popular open source gEDA suite of design tools

Design Files and Bill of Materials

Schematic (PDF – v1.1 / SVN r1114)
PCB Images (PDF – v1.1 / SVN r1114)
Design Files (gschem/pcb – v1.1 / SVN r1114)
Faceplate CAD Drawing (DXF or PNG)
Faceplate CAM File (Cambam)

[table “” not found /]

Notes:
Note 1: F1 and J4 may be omitted if you do not intend to inject power at this cab panel.  Also, see note 2.
Note 2: J5 and the shunting jumper that goes in it (part 3M9580-ND) may be omitted if you don’t want to ever change if a panel can inject power or not.  Just solder in a small piece of wire to permanently connect the proper two holes in the board.
Note 3: There’s nothing magical about most of these parts.  The Digikey part numbers are provided as a reference, but pretty much everything except the DIN plugs are commodity parts that can be found from many sources and from many suppliers.

 What About DIN Cables?

The other half of using DIN plugs in the cab fascia is that you have to actually have to have cables to connect them to the throttles.  The standard offering from NCE has a 90-degree plug at the end.  Again, while it should work with my panels, it’s not my favorite.  I’m also not a huge coiled cord guy – I find they often get all tangled up.

My solution was to purchase a 25′ male-male DIN cord from Amazon and cut it in half.  I then stripped the ends and crimped on a 6p4c connector to the appropriate wires.  It took a little doing to get the cable forced in far enough that the casing would engage with the strain relief, but it is possible.

At least for the cable I used, the pinout worked out as follows (your mileage may vary):

1 – no pin
2 – White
3 – Blue
4 – Green
5 – Red
6 – no pin

IMG_1139 My DIN throttle cable